Rome: Extras

Just a couple more things about the capital:

As mentioned, the day we arrived, Saturday 23^rd June, was a huge Pride celebration in the city. We encountered the parade on several occasions, more than enough to see the various floats and dancers embracing not just LGBT but also fetishes and generally encouraging everyone to have a good time! Fliers for the Japanese rope play sessions littered the streets for days, but it wasn't really in our means to attend any.

I don't know whether this event is on a similar weekend every year, but I suspect so and it is definitely worth joining in if you're there!

Rome is a fabulous city for just walking around. Every piazza has a statue or an obelisk (many of which are authentic) or a fountain (Yes we did see the Trevi, it's big and full of tourists) so you can easily kill an afternoon just drifting around and seeing what you can see.

For those of you with budgets which include shopping, Via Governo Vecchio has several vintage boutiques, from pre-owned pretties to vintage-inspired originals. This is somewhere else to while away an hour just window shopping even if you can't take anything with you. There are plenty of cafes and trattorias here too for anyone in the party not inclined to browse!

The last great vintage-inspired find, which I was foolish enough to walk away from empty handed, is Pazza Venezia on Via del Plebiscito. For only €30-€40 each their tight-waisted 50's style dresses are great value classic cuts in modern colours. They also have kitsch t-shirts and plenty of accessories. When in Rome again this is where all roads will lead me!

Bulletin: Travellers' Cheques

 So, I don't know if any of our esteemed readers have ever used - or plan to use - these devilish devices.

I chose to use them on this trip because I have had several problems with my Natwest card in the past and I didn't fancy carrying ridiculous amounts of cash on us. I'd never had problems with them before and saw only what they were advertised as: reassurance.

Three days ago we went out in Naples for a spot of housekeeping:

1). Posting something

2). Dropping off some washing at the laundry,

3). Cashing some travellers' cheques.

Not a single bank or exchange in the city of Naples will accept Travellers' Cheques. From information we found when trying to find a vendor, they haven't for some time.

There was one exception; the exchange at the station. They charged 15% of the total, flat rate. Oh, and a commission as well. On this deal, we stood to lose over €200 if we changed the lot.

This morning, a charming pair of Cambio (Exchange) workers helped us through the process of changing our TCs for a rate of 2% commission plus €9 processing fee. I will be ever grateful to them and I don't think I will ever use Travellers' Cheques again.

I'm not saying boycott AmEx entirely, (although I've not seen many of their badges out here...) but talk to your bank and use credit/debit cards or cash. Also, don't trust the online AmEx TC Locator map - if a bank wants to turn you away, they will.

Seriously. Firenze has been a tonic today. It really has.

Next stop for the blog, however: Napoli/Naples!

Rome: Food

It's a subject close to our hearts! Now, the Tiger and I fast realised that Europe is somewhat more expensive than Egypt (golly gosh, is it ever!), although we'll admit that we took a while to adjust and realise just how much! So we're trying to keep ourselves to a budget and as such, eat in restaurants only a couple of times in any place. Let's start small and work up:

Self-catering

Our first hostel was self-catering, and we were able to get pasta, sauce and sandwich materials (and wine) in a mini-market nearby. There was also a supermarket, but the other thing we had to adjust to was a country where for shops, showing up on Sunday meant "you're kidding" and showing up after 5pm meant "why aren't you at home cooking yet?"

Also, fruit and veg is very cheap. Either from the supermarket or street markets (which there are plenty of) a few cherry tomatoes and ripe plums help you feel fuller and more healthy!

My only regret is having to get sliced bread due to our timing. It wasn't sweet, it was just weird, in an unpleasant, can-I-face-sandwiches-again? kinda way. Bear in mind your day of travel!

Snacks

Italy is (one of) the homes of great coffee, but certainly great cappuccino - which, I discovered, was named after an order of monks, while reading a press release in the doorway of Bar Sant'Eustachio, (82 Piazza Sant'Eustachio, near the Pantheon). It's a proud establishment, which the guidebook boasts as having the best espresso in town. I would have to concur. I had been expecting to shudder and wince at the bitterness of truly strong coffee, but instead found myself savouring the smooth, rather delicate concoction as it slid down my throat. Their sweets are well worth a try, too, as is "counter service" where, as a sightseeing tourist-on-the-go, you swiftly sip your drink at the counter once you've been served, saving time and a Euro or two in the process!

We also took cappuccino and tea at a cafe in the Piazza opposite the Pantheon, mostly as this was one which had free Wi-Fi and not completely unreasonable prices. Here we wiled away nearly two hours getting ourselves organised and up-to-date. Two teas (served with hot water in a pot, teabag beside the cup and a jug of cold milk), two cappuccinos and a serving of fries came to €19, though, so again, not something for everyday!

The other snack food to be indulged in here is gelato. A week into our travels, we are still investigating and learning about the many flavours available, and the better and worse sorts of places to get it from. In Rome, every attraction and most piazzas have vendors in yellow kiosks who will serve you panini, water, soft drinks, beer or gelato at slightly inflated prices. Do ask first: one kiosk in the gardens of the Borghese villa was after €4 a scoop!

The hot weather can really do for your portable iced delight as well, so if you have the time, sitting in a cafe is also an option. Keep your eyes open; the cheapest we've managed so far for a small is €2.50, but then again, who wants a small gelato?

Water

Speaking of the heat, it's handy to know that Rome is full of water fountains, all of which are safe to refill your bottle from. In the summer, with lots of walking, you will need them!

Restaurants

OK, time for the big guns!

Forum Pizzeria, 34-38 Via San Giovanni in Laterano

One of the perfectly situated restaurants up the pedestrianised hill heading away from Piazza Colosseum, this was also the first restaurant recommended for price and quality in our Insight Guides: Rome Smartguide. We were not disappointed.

We sat out on the street and our friendly waiter brought us menus. Unlike many restaurants in the area, there are many starters for around €3, including 100g of buffalo mozzarella, which was creamy and tore off in strips, and was served on top of lettuce which, although a token gesture to healthiness, provided a nice bitter accompaniment now and again.

The Tiger had heard that you could test the quality of mozzarella by how long you could twist it around your fork for before it snaps, had it been cooked. So when our pizzas arrived, that's what he did. For a considerable length of time. I think he got bored before it snapped. So, if that measuring method is correct, it was bloody good mozzarella! We had a vegetarian pizza (roasted peppers, aubergines and courgettes) and a Capricciosa, which involved ham, olives, mushrooms and artichoke hearts. Both were loaded with toppings and, although some of them were not fresh (the mushrooms were tinned) it really felt that we got our money's worth and that we had been well looked after.

The whole meal, which included patatas fritas (which turned out to be fries!) buffalo mozzarella, two pizzas, one 7up and one white wine came to €30.

Special offers

Many, many restaurants in Rome have boards outside offering pizza and something, usually either a drink (if beer or wine are included they are advertised) or a starter, usually bruschetta, for anything from €8-€12. Other set menus of more courses exist, usually including a first course (often pasta) second course (meat or fish) and drink for €12 and up.

On this particular evening we were beginning to feel the press of a capital on our purses and so were looking for one of the former. Eventually we chose a cafe on the street whose name I cannot recall, but they had bruschetta/pasta/drink or salad/pizza/drink and various alcohols were only €4 each as well. Meals were €9 if you wanted a fizzy drink or €8 with coffee.

It was a good meal, don't get me wrong, it filled a space. But I really got the feeling you could see where the corners had been cut and I was suspicious of their profit margin, even though at the outset it felt we'd gotten a good deal.

As with all these things, I would say keep your eyes open and think about your budget - but also think about the quality of the budget food. It's better to find a really good sandwich or pastry, as we shall see, than cut corners for the sake of a "full-sized" meal.  

Rome:Churches

 With the Tiger's Catholic heritage and my parents' love of old houses breeding my own love of the old and extravagant, we are going in for a fair bit of church tourism on this trip. I selected these four out of our guidebook, and was not disappointed. I'm going to try to keep them short and sweet and organise them in ascending order of which I liked best.

Santa Maria del Popolo

Situated … this church houses a fabulous collection of artworks, including several Caravaggios, which are kept safe from the camera's flash. I'll admit, what drew me here initially was the picture of a funerary monument which contained an actual skeleton, but we think that must have been behind the restoration curtains. We looked everywhere else! However, there were plenty of other monuments, canvases and slightly morbid relics to look at, so it was definitely not a disappointment. There were also skulls. Lots of skulls. Crafted and positioned below people's memorials. This is one of many things to go on my list of things to read up on.

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

This establishment is near the Pantheon, and like the Pantheon is a re-purposing job. The difference with this one is that the church was built on top of (sopra) the Roman shrine to Minerva, goddess of wisdom. There are still little nods to her around the place, including an owl sat on a shield behind a relief of a saint.

This church contains "yellow-stars-on-blue-sky", something you'll hear more about when I finally write up Luxor! These are gold stars on lapis lazuli paint, and are still stunning. There are also lots more skulls and angels, but what this church is famous for is Michelango's Christ. He is standing on the left of the altar, holding up his cross with ease and looking pretty chilled. He did cause a stir, however, by being totally naked. Thus the Good Lord now sports a specially commissioned, miraculously positioned bronze loin-cloth. Ah well, we'll just have to make do with all the naked cherubim instead...

The Pantheon

A converted Roman temple, which has the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. It is a miracle of ancient design, down to the hole in the roof for light to come in and the alcoves which now contain Christian saints and martyrs.

Raphael is also resting here. You can't see the man personally, but he has a lovely stone sarcophagus. And he is in there. They checked in the nineteenth century.

This is almost permanently busy - we ended up in the Piazza del Rotonda a few times on our wanders, and it was always full - and the security do try to keep it quiet, but it the crowd tends to cycle, and you can take your time to look at everything.

San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane

This one's way away up in the Quirinale, on Via XXIV Maggio. I chose this one as it was designed by Bernini's rival, B-. Here he had to do a great deal with a small space, and he did, using decorated archways to give an impression of space where there really isn't any. It's probably the smallest church I've ever seen, but the roof employs a very sophisticated trick to gather as much light as possible into the white-washed main space, leaving you without the close shadows of many churches nor the sense of enclosure that such a small space should produce. It's very impressive.

A strange and beautiful ex-fountain resides in a room around to the right, but I wasn't able to find out what it actually was. There is also a crypt below, but all its icons and decorations had been removed and it was white-washed beyond creepy.

However, the show here is somewhat stolen by the Blessed -, who appears to have been sainted for being constantly patient with her drunken, abusive husband. There are relics of her belongings and locks of her hair and testimonials for her pious and caring behaviour, and the red and blue cross of the Trinitarian Order all over the church. Yes, reading this tale of archaic maltreatment made me cross - it seems like such an obvious way to control people, to make examples out of the few who put up with shit all their lives and don't rock the boat (she was also a wonderful person, don't get me wrong) - but in another sense, it is good to know that even the good people are remembered. Still, her life was so relentlessly awful that it actually seems tongue-in-cheek in translation. It's like the Church regards being reduced to poverty as a virtue. The Tiger informs me that it more or less does.

Don't forget to check out the four fountains on the corners of the street as you arrive/leave; as well as the elegant anthropomorphic statues - there are several animals to be spotted around them, all significant to Rome. And of course, you can fill your water bottle.

Santa Maria Della Vittoria

Henceforth to be known as the Church of the Morbid Curiosity. This church, also in the Quirinale, was amazing. We entered through a side door due to restoration work which closed off the main entrance. As you enter the main part of the church through this side-entrance, to the left you see a simulacrum of St. Vitorria. The poor woman was stabbed in the throat and is currently on her side, writhing towards visitors, hands raised, eyelids and lips slightly parted. However, all we get to explain this is "St. Vittoria, virgin and martyr". There is a large, stone, male saint above her who gets more word count.

Even more diverting than this, however, is "The Ecstasy of Saint Theresa" by, you guessed it, Bernini. This is where it begins, dear readers, the gaping fascination that was to become pure admiration for the sculptor.

The larger-than-life statue shows Saint Theresa about to be stabbed through the heart by the golden arrow of the triumphant angel. According to the information we are given, this pleasurable stabbing happened several times in Theresa's life, and eventually happened in front of people. In her rapture, she saw an angel, probably Seraphim, become corporeal and then stab her in the heart several times with his golden arrow.

The expressions are wonderful; the angel smiles with a smile that says "this is for your own good." And as for Theresa, well...

As with the Berninis discussed earlier, it is full of life and expression, although not entirely pleasant for all its artistic mastery. Anyway, I think I've made my feelings clear.

There are five other shrines in the church, a ceiling full of frescoes and angels and a golden alter not too dissimilar to that of the Vatican, too, so you can distract yourself for quite some time if that's your sort of thing!

There are many, many other churches in Rome, so if you like your churches to be dramatic Catholic materpieces, get in there. If not, please still go and see St Maria della Vittoria. The Quirinale is well worth a walk for its many fountains and piazzas, so take the time while you're up there to see this sublime, ridiculous entity.

Main Attractions

Main Attractions

These are the things which I assume people are going to say "Oh you went there? Did you see..." and of course are a matter of opinion!

The Colosseum, Forum and Museo Palatino

Many and most guide books will give you an admirable breakdown of the various monuments and sites within these ancient complexes, so I shan't be doing that!

A mere €12 will get you into all three sites, and as we got to the Forum quite late on Day 1, we were most obliged to the lovely gate personnel who let us through the gate again to see the museum on Day 2. The ticket will last you two days, which is plenty of time for both sites (the Museum is within the Forum).

The site of the Forum houses two impressive collections, one of glass and mosaic relics from the site, and the Museo Palatino, showing both Roman and earlier remains found on that particular hill. There were holes found that were previously the foundation of a round-ended hut. I'm not going to make any assertions about any mythical twins, but as the hill gives a commanding view of the city - it isn't surprising that people have been settled here a while. The sculpture floor is interesting as it shows Rome's interest in other cultures and how they integrated the things they liked (sphinxes, Bes, elephants) into their own wall art. Definitely worth including.

The grounds of the Forum are a pleasure to stroll around in, columns and statues kept clear in places from the Mediterranean hedgerow. My favourite part was in the ruins of the palace of Tiberus, on top of which spread the pleasure gardens of Cardinal Farnese (Orte Farnesiani). In the bowels of the palace, an old fountain or altar space is gradually calcifying beneath the run-off from a leaking fountain above its ceiling. Two statues remain behind its locked doors; everything else is gone. Above, rambling plants have all-but overgrown the waterfall which provides oxygen for the goldfish living below (goldfish may not be original).

The Colosseum is bound to please. It is as the name suggests, and houses displays on artefacts found in the complex, as well as discussion on what went on there and how. I don't think I need to go into detail here; you're going to see it even if you don't visit it, and if you're seeing it, you'll probably visit it!

Awesome history: 8/10

New discoveries: 8/10

Partially under construction: 4/10 (no navel for us)

The Vatican Museum and St Peter's Basilica

We ended up in town on Free Sunday, so we headed over for Free Sunday. But of course, so had everyone else. Get over there early!!

So, we were offered a guided tour for €25 each which would mean skipping the queue and being told some fascinating facts into the bargain. Faced with the possibility of large wooden doors slamming in our faces, we opted in. Never Again.

We assumed, until our guide started talking, that this was a reputable tour company. We'd also assumed, having been in Egypt for a while, that this sort of offer was for a guide for us and just us. Oh-oh no, my friend! We were at least 60 strong as we fast-tracked through those gates and were handed from person to person until we reached 'Cas', our guide.

The Tiger thinks she was a Djinn. He was very sure, after some bad experiences in Egypt, to ask explicitly for an English-speaking guide. That's what we got. That's all we got.

Well, not quite all...

Alarm bells started ringing when, while we waited for people to make sure they had used the lavatory and loaded up on water, she began talking about herself, not the ancient and revered building in whose lobby we were standing in. I took the red pill; some of you know what that mean - cute, geeky reference, I can dig that. She's an artist - doesn't like the art in the lobby (to be fair, neither did I, it's god-awful. Pardon the pun) - but it went on...

• Name: Cassiopeia Bush. Not genetically related to those Bushes, however...
• Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and Vlad "Dracula" are (it's all on the Internet)
• I'm here in political exile, by the way.
• I'm a citizen of the Republic of California; there's no such thing as the United States of America; that's just a corporation.
• We're all slaves of the corporations, by the way; just most of us don't know it.
• I always trust my instincts (trust your instincts)
• Michelangelo was thinking with both sides of his brain (do the math, two sides!)
• The Monument is like a pine cone. PINE cone, PINEal gland? Do the math!
• It's funny how in so many cultures you get this pine staff, like the pineal gland, huh? Do the math!
• Michelangelo was off the scale artistically. Michelangelo's OCD was off the scale. I'm OCD too, by the way.
• Up there is a dragon: draco: draconus: draconian: do the math! Trust your instincts; it's all on the Internet.
• If you could get me anything, I would say get me into the vault. Or one of these; this urn is marble and amber (OK, less conspiracy-theorist, but... it was alabaster, not amber...)
• We all know about Amber from Jurassic Park; we all know what amber truly is now...
• So there was Cleopatra I, II... so this is Cleopatra... and of course she was Alexander the Great's niece, she was Macedonian, that's on the internet. (It was Cleopatra VII!! VII!! and I think after that many generations (and as Ptolemy was not Alexander's nephew), she's allowed to be called Egyptian!!! [The Tiger's rage had shown a while ago. This is the point I got properly vocal.])
• They have an observatory here, the highest in the world, that they didn't tell us about until recently - that's very interesting, isn't it? Well, now they've told us about the telescope in the Antarctic, the new highest on earth, they've finally told us! It's on the Internet...
• The Romans quarried 95% of Egypt's red granite, and 85% of that is in Rome. (Egyptophile note: Um... have you been to Aswan?! If they'd taken 85% of 95% of Aswan's granite, the entire city would have to be made of it).

And it goes on. Basically, it's all about your pineal glad, the Vatican are hiding things from us, and if it had been done in a way which was tongue in cheek, or if we'd asked for it, fine! But really? It just made us cross. I hate to say it, but I would not support on-the-spot guides again. I just wouldn't.

As for the Vatican? Go. They have an amazing collection of Greek and Roman statuary, two rooms of sensational beasts, Raphael's tapestries and of course the Sistine Chapel itself, in all its restored glory. The Basilica as well is beautiful, but again, if you're there, you're going to see it. You don't need me to tell you to go!

Conspiracy theories: 9/10

Of course you need math! It's an architectural master piece! 10/10

Ripped off in Rome: 9/10 (there were moments of entertainment value)

Villa Borghese

I'm tempted to say this one might be a little less well known, as I had no knowledge of it pre-Roma, but as you have to book a time-slot to get in, it can't be too ambiguous!

Located in the vast Borghese estate, this art collection-become-museum is an exhibition in itself. Famous architects were involved in every stage of its construction, as Cardinal Scipione Borghese and his descendants had very, very refined tastes!

Lucrezia Borgia doesn't feature, but Bernini, Carravaggio, Raphael and Ancient Rome do.

Cardinal Sciopione shamelessly used his own influence and that of his uncle (the Pope) to collect a vast and ranging variety of sculpture and canvas. He also had an eye for new talent. If you're not a fan of Bernini before you go (and you may be), you will be after seeing his David, Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Persephone. It is marble as alive as it will ever be, including branches with leaves made of the stuff, which apparently ring like crystal if you tap them. David bites his lip before he loses the rock; Daphne's fingers become the most delicate leaves; Persephone's flesh yields beneath Pluto's grabbing fingers. They are, for want of a better word, beautiful.

The audioguide is a must, as the labels are in Italian, and even then, not detailed. I learned the difference between Neoclassicism and Baroque, courtesy of Bernini and a statue of Napoleon's sister.

There is also the fact that the whole house was made to be beautiful, so the ceilings are all either fresco or portraits that have been attached to the ceiling. The Egyptian room is the most ridiculous, as it is so obviously fashionable, not accurate (Anubis, in particular, is hilariously bad), but then perhaps a scholar of Roman art would say the same of some of the more Roman decorations.

Go. For the sake of all that's beautiful, go.

Holy f*ck 10/10

I don't even 10/10

More please 10/10

The Jackal Abroad: Italy

So my first entry of a new breed was not of Egypt I'm afraid; so sue me!! I've been fidgeting with how best to present our travels around Italy+, so let me know what you think, if they're helpful or not, and how to improve.

Roma

The Basics

Travel: We flew in from Cairo International Airport; there was a massive delay, we don't know why, they wouldn't tell us, but at 45mins we got given drinks and at 1h 30 they gave us a new plane, so it was alright. As EU residents, customs was a breeze!

At Fiumincino, we saw notices for buses for 4 Euros. We found a bus leaving in 30 mins for €4, or one leaving right now for €6, which was still better than the train for just over €14. We slung our bags in and headed in remarkably little traffic for Termini and the short walk to our hostel. It was air conditioned and comfy!

Accommodation: Two Ducks Hostel, €15.50 pppn plus city tax.

It turned out to be an apartment-style hostel, as in run from and with rooms in separate apartments.

There was no breakfast, even though both the internet advertisement and signs on the doors suggested there would be. We found this out as the owner/on duty staff escorted us from the office at premises A to our accommodation at premises B.

The hallway lights weren't working and the shower would be lovely if the head would remain above head height.

However, the beds are comfy and the kitchen is stocked with plates, cutlery, and a working fridge and oven, so we've done some good self-catering here.

There is also no security, so as long as you don't mind carrying your cash and things on you you'll be fine. For the cost, though, might be worth checking ahead on some things (I didn't book this one, so I'm  taking no responsibility!)

The owner then left us alone for the duration of our stay. He implied that it would all right for us to check out slightly later than the suggested 11am, so we'll see how that goes tomorrow!

Local transport: There are buses, trams, taxis and metro in Rome; we have so far ony taken the later for manoeuvring around the city. €1.50 will get you as far as you want in one direction and there are many variations on the theme. You can also walk to any of the areas with a bit of commitment and sensible shoes, so it's pretty easy to get around. The metro is quick and air-conditioned, I would highly recommend it.  

General flavour: This was heavily coloured for us by where we'd just come from: Egypt, where I have had to watch my dress and we've had to watch our public behaviour, to Rome, which was having a PRIDE event that day. 

Once I'd got over the novelty of other people's bared flesh, as well as the option of baring my own, the city struck me as jovial, chilled-out and healthy. The sites here are heaving with tourists; there are groups and individuals alike wandering and wondering, cafes are cafe-ing, and the traders trade without making you feel pressured. But more on that later. 

Basically, from first impressions on down, Rome is a lovely place to spend a holiday!

A Change of Pace

Well, felines and canines it’s been some time since we’ve updated. Truth is, this was never meant to be a rant blog, but an observer blog, a guide blog, and a discourse and discussion blog. It deteriorated rather quickly, I know. Partly because part of the culture shock of moving here came with the new way of working as much as the new way of living. Partly because I saw this as more the Tiger’s project and wrote a NaNoWriMo in November instead of contributing a great deal. And partly because there was not a great deal of discussion going on, which was a touch discouraging.

So, enough of that! I’m going to endeavour to take the Sphinx by the wings and pull this space back towards its original purpose. I’ll be putting up guides, observations and short stories from time to time. I make no promises of pace at this point, as next week we travel and updating will be tricky. But I will put up something of substance before we leave and hopefully a few more bits over the summer.

So, apologies for the absence, and I’ll see you again soon!