Rome: Food

It's a subject close to our hearts! Now, the Tiger and I fast realised that Europe is somewhat more expensive than Egypt (golly gosh, is it ever!), although we'll admit that we took a while to adjust and realise just how much! So we're trying to keep ourselves to a budget and as such, eat in restaurants only a couple of times in any place. Let's start small and work up:

Self-catering

Our first hostel was self-catering, and we were able to get pasta, sauce and sandwich materials (and wine) in a mini-market nearby. There was also a supermarket, but the other thing we had to adjust to was a country where for shops, showing up on Sunday meant "you're kidding" and showing up after 5pm meant "why aren't you at home cooking yet?"

Also, fruit and veg is very cheap. Either from the supermarket or street markets (which there are plenty of) a few cherry tomatoes and ripe plums help you feel fuller and more healthy!

My only regret is having to get sliced bread due to our timing. It wasn't sweet, it was just weird, in an unpleasant, can-I-face-sandwiches-again? kinda way. Bear in mind your day of travel!

Snacks

Italy is (one of) the homes of great coffee, but certainly great cappuccino - which, I discovered, was named after an order of monks, while reading a press release in the doorway of Bar Sant'Eustachio, (82 Piazza Sant'Eustachio, near the Pantheon). It's a proud establishment, which the guidebook boasts as having the best espresso in town. I would have to concur. I had been expecting to shudder and wince at the bitterness of truly strong coffee, but instead found myself savouring the smooth, rather delicate concoction as it slid down my throat. Their sweets are well worth a try, too, as is "counter service" where, as a sightseeing tourist-on-the-go, you swiftly sip your drink at the counter once you've been served, saving time and a Euro or two in the process!

We also took cappuccino and tea at a cafe in the Piazza opposite the Pantheon, mostly as this was one which had free Wi-Fi and not completely unreasonable prices. Here we wiled away nearly two hours getting ourselves organised and up-to-date. Two teas (served with hot water in a pot, teabag beside the cup and a jug of cold milk), two cappuccinos and a serving of fries came to €19, though, so again, not something for everyday!

The other snack food to be indulged in here is gelato. A week into our travels, we are still investigating and learning about the many flavours available, and the better and worse sorts of places to get it from. In Rome, every attraction and most piazzas have vendors in yellow kiosks who will serve you panini, water, soft drinks, beer or gelato at slightly inflated prices. Do ask first: one kiosk in the gardens of the Borghese villa was after €4 a scoop!

The hot weather can really do for your portable iced delight as well, so if you have the time, sitting in a cafe is also an option. Keep your eyes open; the cheapest we've managed so far for a small is €2.50, but then again, who wants a small gelato?

Water

Speaking of the heat, it's handy to know that Rome is full of water fountains, all of which are safe to refill your bottle from. In the summer, with lots of walking, you will need them!

Restaurants

OK, time for the big guns!

Forum Pizzeria, 34-38 Via San Giovanni in Laterano

One of the perfectly situated restaurants up the pedestrianised hill heading away from Piazza Colosseum, this was also the first restaurant recommended for price and quality in our Insight Guides: Rome Smartguide. We were not disappointed.

We sat out on the street and our friendly waiter brought us menus. Unlike many restaurants in the area, there are many starters for around €3, including 100g of buffalo mozzarella, which was creamy and tore off in strips, and was served on top of lettuce which, although a token gesture to healthiness, provided a nice bitter accompaniment now and again.

The Tiger had heard that you could test the quality of mozzarella by how long you could twist it around your fork for before it snaps, had it been cooked. So when our pizzas arrived, that's what he did. For a considerable length of time. I think he got bored before it snapped. So, if that measuring method is correct, it was bloody good mozzarella! We had a vegetarian pizza (roasted peppers, aubergines and courgettes) and a Capricciosa, which involved ham, olives, mushrooms and artichoke hearts. Both were loaded with toppings and, although some of them were not fresh (the mushrooms were tinned) it really felt that we got our money's worth and that we had been well looked after.

The whole meal, which included patatas fritas (which turned out to be fries!) buffalo mozzarella, two pizzas, one 7up and one white wine came to €30.

Special offers

Many, many restaurants in Rome have boards outside offering pizza and something, usually either a drink (if beer or wine are included they are advertised) or a starter, usually bruschetta, for anything from €8-€12. Other set menus of more courses exist, usually including a first course (often pasta) second course (meat or fish) and drink for €12 and up.

On this particular evening we were beginning to feel the press of a capital on our purses and so were looking for one of the former. Eventually we chose a cafe on the street whose name I cannot recall, but they had bruschetta/pasta/drink or salad/pizza/drink and various alcohols were only €4 each as well. Meals were €9 if you wanted a fizzy drink or €8 with coffee.

It was a good meal, don't get me wrong, it filled a space. But I really got the feeling you could see where the corners had been cut and I was suspicious of their profit margin, even though at the outset it felt we'd gotten a good deal.

As with all these things, I would say keep your eyes open and think about your budget - but also think about the quality of the budget food. It's better to find a really good sandwich or pastry, as we shall see, than cut corners for the sake of a "full-sized" meal.